The evening before the day I drive into Iran, I receive a message from 2 Iranians via Instagram whether they can help me with anything. One is a motorcyclist who would like to meet me if that suits the route, the other has a commercial slant as he helps travelers with the paperwork at the border crossing.
I have a nice conversation with both and I accept the offer to be relieved for the border formalities for $50, including insurance for the motorcycle. I really think I can do it myself, but after the border crossing, which can easily take half a day or a whole day, I still want to drive the 160 km to Tabriz and then a quick settlement by a fixer is useful. I arrange to meet him on the Iranian side of the border.
In the morning I wake up early and after breakfast and goodbye at the B&B I drive the 10 km to the border at ease. It's not crowded, thankfully. On the Armenian side, as many as 6 different customs officers ask for passports and motorcycle papers. I still get a little Spanish when I have to open bags and suitcases, because I have a drone with me and they are not happy with that I know. But luckily it remains with a superficial glance and everything can be closed again and I can drive on to the Iranian side on the other side of the river.
When I get there, a customs officer has a discussion with a Georgian couple who impulsively decided to tour Iran in their Lada for a few days. He does not get it explained to them that they need a Carnet De Passage to import the car. These are import and export papers that must be stamped in any country that requires this as proof that the car is not left behind or sold in the country.
The customs officer asks my CDP and explains to them that they can turn around and are not allowed to enter the country.
And that's my happiness. Because this customs officer takes my CDP and me along all counters and personally signs and stamps my papers. I haven't even had a chance to contact my fixer yet, who would do this for me. Less than half an hour later he wishes me welcome in Iran and a bit dazed I drive to the exit gate and show my papers for the last time. I'm in Iran! The complete border crossing in just over 1.5 hours, without a fixer.
Even after the border post, not a large 2-lane road, but a narrow asphalt road, which has been patched up here and there, and goes straight up into the mountains. What a landscape again! High pointed, rocky mountains without vegetation and there between red, yellow and brown earth and yes, also rainbow mountains. Amazing, what a view.
I feel really euphoric and sit on the bike with a smile from ear to ear. There is no such thing as an unsafe feeling. I don't run into any police or army or anything. On the contrary, cars honk, passengers wave and everyone seems to be laughing at me. What a difference with Georgia and Armenia.
I consider myself lucky to have my Garmin navigation that works and I am easily zipping towards the city of Tibriz. Iran's third largest city. The city is busy and traffic rules don't seem to exist. Traffic lights are there for the atmosphere and everyone is doing something on roundabouts, but luckily all in the same direction.
When I drive through a small street with only moped shops, 2 guests join me until I am at the door of the hotel. Both taking pictures on my motorcycle and of course phone numbers again. exchanged for when I need help. That can only make you happy!
Anyway, after a good negotiation I am again 2 nights in a posh hotel in the center for $30. With WiFi, but unfortunately no VPN, whatsapp, Messenger, YouTube, and so on. Fortunately, I can let you know by e-mail at home that everything is going well.
I freshen up and immediately walk to the park opposite the hotel to have something to eat and drink. At a street food joint I ask a young man who speaks English if he can help me with ordering and while eating we start talking. And it stays that way well into the evening. He shows me just about the whole city and I learn a lot about Iranian life. Hugely impressive. And I've only been here 1 day...
Hey Ivo, bin zelluf still ouch waal bliej det the border crossing noa Iran good is gone. Hope the rest of the tour ouch zoe gemekkelik verluuptj
Hi Leon, thanks for that message. I don't worry about anything, although it is of course good to be on my guard. For sure everything is still going fast!