The mountains immediately start north of Islamabad and the roads that run through them lead to northern Afghanistan, Tajikistan and China. The road to China is on every globetrotter's bucket list: the epic Karakoram Highway. This is not a highway but one of the highest asphalted roads in the world with the highest point 4,714 meters and a length of 1300 km. Unfortunately unavailable to me at the moment. The road is kept clear of snow but I am not equipped for winter conditions.
The provincial road I take winds through the mountains with hundreds of bends. A real pleasure to drive, although the asphalt is quite slippery. It continues to be careful. On the way I come twice at a police checkpoint where my papers are checked. At the first, the policeman invites me for tea and I think that's a good idea. I think he is going to get it from his office, but he asks me to follow him and so we walk together to a local tea place. He speaks great English and it's a nice break.
I continue my way towards Shogran. According to the BMW dealer a very nice spot in the mountains. What he didn't say is that the last 14 km are off-road. And how! The steep road up starts with gravel and soon turns into stones and mud. Guests of the hotels in the village are picked up in the valley by old Land Rovers. A few times I hesitate to turn around, but my curiosity wins and I am upstairs before dark.
It will probably be beautiful in the summer, but now it is cold and there are only a few hotels, no houses, shops, nothing. Nice place to walk, but that's not what I come for. Still a bit of a setback and certainly not worth the off-road ride.
Yet I have come a lot further north: the border with Tajikistan is still 500 km away and the border with China 550 km away. And that is good to feel too. The hotel is just below the snow line and it is 9 degrees during the day and 0 during the night. In my room too, because there is no heating! Luckily I have a warm sleeping bag with me, because I can see my own breath when I'm in bed.
